Glossary

A compact board with no number pad, arrows, or function row — about 61 keys. Very space-efficient, but you must learn a function layer for arrows and F-keys.

See also: Form factor (layout size), Layer (Fn layer)

A common, smooth keycap plastic that can look great but develops shine where fingers touch it most. Frequently what stock budget caps are made of.

See also: PBT keycaps, Keycaps

How hard you press, in grams-force, before a key registers. Lighter switches tire fingers less; heavier ones resist typos. There is no 'best' — only what suits you.

See also: Linear switch, Tactile switch

A tactile switch that also clicks audibly. Often labeled 'Blue'. Satisfying but loud — reconsider for offices or shared rooms.

See also: Tactile switch, Linear switch

The size class of a keyboard by how many keys it has — 100% (full-size), TKL, 75%, 65%, 60%. Smaller boards save desk space by moving keys onto layers.

See also: Tenkeyless (TKL), 60%, Layer (Fn layer)

A construction style that cushions the typing surface on soft gaskets for a softer feel. Increasingly common; not required for a good first board.

See also: Tray mount

A board that lets you pull and replace switches by hand, no soldering. Ideal for a first build because you can change your mind about switches later.

See also: Soldered, PCB

The shape and height of keycaps (e.g., Cherry, OEM, SA). Sculpted profiles contour to your fingers; uniform profiles are the same shape on every row.

See also: Keycaps

The caps you actually press. Their material and profile change how a board feels, sounds, and looks — often the easiest meaningful upgrade for a beginner.

See also: PBT keycaps, ABS keycaps, Keycap profile

A second set of key functions reached by holding a modifier, usually Fn. Smaller boards rely on layers for arrows, media, and function keys.

See also: 60%, QMK / VIA

A switch with smooth, bump-free travel. A common first choice for gaming and fast typing. Often labeled 'Red'.

See also: Tactile switch, Clicky switch, Actuation force

Applying a thin lubricant to switches and stabilizers to reduce scratchiness and rattle. A common first modding project once you're comfortable opening the board.

See also: Stabilizers, Linear switch

An individual spring-loaded mechanism under each key, as opposed to a single rubber membrane sheet. Each key registers independently, which is what gives mechanical keyboards their consistent feel and longevity.

See also: Linear switch, Tactile switch, Clicky switch, Membrane keyboard

A keyboard where keypresses are detected through a single flexible rubber/silicone layer. Cheaper and quieter but mushier and shorter-lived than mechanical — the thing most people are upgrading from.

See also: Mechanical switch

A durable, slightly textured keycap plastic that resists the greasy shine ABS develops. Usually the recommended upgrade.

See also: ABS keycaps, Keycaps

The circuit board inside the keyboard that detects keypresses and provides features like hot-swap, RGB, and wireless.

See also: Hot-swap, QMK / VIA

QMK is open-source keyboard firmware; VIA is a simple app to remap keys and build layers without programming. A genuinely useful feature to look for on a first board.

See also: Layer (Fn layer)

A board with switches permanently soldered to the PCB. Cheaper and very secure, but committing to a switch choice. Fine once you know what you like.

See also: Hot-swap

Supports under big keys (spacebar, Enter, Shift) that keep them from tilting. Rattly stabilizers are the most common reason a new board 'sounds cheap' — and tuning them is a beginner-friendly fix.

See also: Keycaps, Lubing

A switch with a bump you feel when the key registers, without a click sound. Often labeled 'Brown'. A good middle ground for typists.

See also: Linear switch, Clicky switch

Full-size minus the number pad — about 87 keys. A popular, low-risk first step down from a full-size board.

See also: Form factor (layout size), 60%

The most common budget construction: the board screws into posts in the case. Perfectly fine for a starter keyboard.

See also: Gasket mount

2.4 GHz uses a USB dongle and feels near-instant (good for gaming); Bluetooth connects to phones and tablets conveniently with slightly more delay. Many boards do both plus wired.